The Ultimate Austrian Wineguide 2023/24

AUSTRIA’S GRAPE

AUSTRIA’S GRAPE VARIETIES Because it is sensitive to dryness, it favours south-facing slopes protected from the wind. It provides generous, reliable yields. When fermented dry, Welschriesling brings fresh, fruity wines with subtle spice, best enjoyed in their youth. The variety is perhaps at its best as a noble sweet predicated wine for its luscious sweetness finds perfect balance in its inherent acidity. A Welsch riesling Trockenbeerenauslese can bring tremendous drinking pleasure even after two decades of bottle maturation. Zierfandler ZIERFANDLER Synonym: Spätrot DNA parentage analysis at the Federal College and Research Centre for Viticulture and Pomology Klosterneuburg has suggested that Zierfandler could be a natural cross between Roter Veltliner and a relative of Savagnin that took place near Gumpoldskirchen in the Thermenregion of Niederösterreich (Lower Austria). Gumpoldskirchen continues to be one of the few places in the world where the variety is found. Together with another rare autochthon variety Rotgipler, Zierfandler is the foundation on which the fame of the historic wine village Gumpoldskirchen is based. It is a fickle and demanding variety that ripens late and irregularly, providing no more than moderate yields. The wine has a golden yellow colour, a distinct fruity bouquet, full body, and racy acidity. It is spicy and rich in extract and alcohol content, and is often produced with residual sweetness, blended with Rotgipfler variety and marketed as Spätrot-Rotgipfler. RED WINE VARIETIES BLAUFRÄNKISCH Synonyms: Limberger, Lemberger Although Blaufränkisch is not Austria’s number one black grape in terms of planted area – with 3,225 hectares it ranks second – it is the most important variety to many Austrian red wine specialists. Its exact origin has not yet been determined, but for many centuries it has certainly been at home in Austrian vineyards. The root of the word, “fränkisch”, was associated with the German Franks just as the stem “Wälsch” was connected with Italian, as is exemplified by Welschriesling. One assumes, however, that the term Blaufränkisch was meant to hint at the positive properties of the wine – “Frankish” in the sense of good, fine. By contrast, the name “Heunisch” meaning “Hunnish” was still used last century to denote a weak, less valuable wine. Both in the Viennese dialect and in En glish, the term “frank” also has the connotation of “honest”. But enough on etymology: Blaufränkisch thrives in deep soils and even does quite well in lime soils. It ripens relatively late and is harvested after advanta geously long hang times. While not particularly susceptible to mildew diseases, it is prone to botrytis-related stem necrosis. Typically, it displays pronounced dark berry aromas reminiscent of boysenberry, sometimes intertwined with mineral notes derived from its terroir. Appetizing acidity and firm tannin structure are its trademarks. The grape calls for at least two years of ageing before it becomes approachable. Wines from good vintages exhibit surprising ageing capacity. The best Blaufränkisch wines are vinified according to international models in new French oak bar- © WSNA 26 falstaff WINE GUIDE 2023/24

RED WINE VARIETIES rels and are often blended with small quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. Blaufränkisch thrives best on the west and south sides of Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland an also finds suitable locations in Carnuntum in Niederösterreich (Lower Austria). The best sites in Südburgenland are located in the Eisenberg DAC. Mittelburgenland is also referred to as “Blaufränkischland”, and this is the predominant variety in prime vineyards in Neckenmarkt, Horitschon, and Deutschkreutz. Farther north on the west side of Lake Neusiedl in the Neusiedlersee-Hügelland wine-growing area and the Leithaberg DAC, Blaufränksich brings exquisite results from marine limestone and mica-schist soils slopes. It is here that the vintner Ernst Triebaumer crafted Austria’s first hallmark wine in 1986 from the single vineyard Marienthal. This legendary wine, although almost completely exhausted, rings a bell for every Austrian wine buff. ZWEIGELT Synonyms: Blauer Zweigelt, Rotburger The variety with the intense cherry fruit aromas and flavours is an Austrian crossing and by far the most widely planted red vine variety in the country and the second most prolific variety after Grüner Veltliner. It grows in all Austrian wine-growing regions on 6,476 ha, covering 14.1% of the total area under vine. This successful grape goes back to Professor Fritz Zweigelt (1888–1964), who developed this cross of Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent at the ederal College and Research Centre for Viticulture and Pomology Klosterneuburg in 1922. Although the name Zweigelt may appear justified in honour of the originator, it has turned out to be a real tongue twister for non-German speaking people. The oenologist himself in a more self-effacing manner chose the designation Rotburger – to the credit of the place where it all came about. He was referring to “red from Klosterneuburg”. The name “Blaue Zweigeltrebe” was officially introduced in 1975 upon intervention of another one of Austria’s winegrow ing pioneers – Lenz Moser, founder of the widely used high culture training system. The reasons why the Zweigelt grape is so popular among vintners are manifold: it is frost-resistant, ripens early, sets no special demands on location or soil, and has proved to be rela tively disease resistant. Consumers appreciate Zweigelt for its vibrant fruitiness that bursts with fresh amarelle cherry flavour. Some of the very best Zweigelts come from the Neusiedlersee DAC on the east side of Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland and from Carnuntum to the north in Niederösterreich, but the variety finds well suited locations throughout Austria’s wine regions. Weather easy-drinking approachable examples or more complex oak-matured growths, Zweigelt is the indisputable crowd-pleaser among Austria’s black grape varieties. Quite frequently, the best lots of Zweigelt are added to a winemaker’s master blend. ROESLER This new variety was developed by Dr. Gertraud Mayer at the Federal Viticulture Research Centre Klosterneuburg and the vine nursery Langenzersdorf. The crossing of Zweigelt x Sevye-Villard 18-402 x Blaufränkisch is named after the former director of Austria’s oldest viticultural college and research centre, Leonard Roesler. The variety brings not only interesting aromas, deep colour, and abundant extract, it is also advantageous for vintners in cooler regions. The variety is quite frost resistant and can withstand temperatures of up to –25° C (–13° F) and is also resis tant to both mildew varieties. Blaufränkisch 27