The Ultimate Austrian Wineguide 2023/24

AUSTRIA’S GRAPE

AUSTRIA’S GRAPE VARIETIES Müller-Thurgau typically displays an intense medium yellow to golden-yellow colour, occasionally with a slightly reddish shimmer. The fragrance is intense and reminiscent of rose petals and marshmallow. Gewürztraminer achieves its best quality in the upper predicated sweet wine categories and is quite capable of extended ageing. Despite being considered a noble, aristocratic wine, it is not currently the trend among consumers. Fortunately there is a committed community of fans, and its continued existence in Austria is secured. GRAUER BURGUNDER Synonyms: Ruländer, Pinot Gris This noble variety stems from Burgundy and was brought into Austria and Hungary in the 14th century by Cistercian monks. Its highest density can be found in north ern Burgenland, where the Cistercians were once very diligent viticulturists. Pinot Gris requires deep soils that are rich in nutrients and a good welldrained location with regular access to a good supply of water. Fruit maturity is reached relatively soon, however the vintage is usually not until the beginning of October. A wine with an intensive golden-yellow colour that sometimes has a mild reddish shimmer and a delicious varietal bouquet with a touch of honey. It is typically full bodied and can reach high levels of alcohol. It currently makes up less than 0.5 % of Austrian vineyards. GRÜNER SYLVANER It is proven that this old indigenous vine variety is a cross of Traminer x Österreichisch Weiss. It is also common in Ger many, where it was mentioned for the first time in 1665 in a monastery inscription. The acreage has been decreasing in Austria, and today Grüner Sylvaner is found nearly only in Niederösterreich. This variety needs fertile soils with good nutrients and water supply, as well as good hillside locations. It is sensitive to winter frost and botrytis. The wine is greenish-yellow, mild and subtly fruity. In short, it is rather neutral. MÜLLER-THURGAU Synonym: Rivaner Cultivated in 1882 by Dr. Hermann Müller from Thurgau in Switzerland at the University of Geisenheim in Germany, it is a cross of Riesling x Madeleine Royal. For years it was believed to be a cross of Riesling x Sylvaner which is the base for its synonym Rivaner. This new variety was introduced in Franken in 1913, and by the 1950s it was distributed throughout the world. Fritz Salomon of the Undhof Winery in Kremstal introduced this variety in Austria in 1926. Once the second-most important grape variety in Austria, its popularity has declined rapidly over the past two decades. It is cultivated predominantly in Lower Austria and Burgenland where it occupies 4.6% of the area under vine. Although not very demanding, it does favour cooler sites and deep loam and loess soils that are rich in nutrients and have a good water supply. Müller-Thurgau is sensitive to winter frost and prone to disease. The wines are usually soft and mild, with a discreet bouquet slightly reminiscent of Muscat. Apart from the sweet predicated wines made, Müller-Thurgau is preferably drunk young. MUSKAT OTTONEL This aromatic variety stems from a crossing of Chasselas x Muscat d’Eisenstadt first breen in the Loire at the end of the 19th century. The main centre of Austrian plantings is in north ern Burgenland, and it totals 0,8% of the Austrian area under vine. It requires deep, fertile soil with good water supply and loves a sunny site protected from the wind. The rip en ing is early but with unrelia- © WSNA 22 falstaff WINE GUIDE 2023/24

WHITE WINE VARIETIES ble yields. The wine exhibits a greenish-yellow colour and an intense spicy bouquet reminiscent of nutmeg. It is mild, usually low in alcohol and extract and most suited for the production of remarkable sweet predicated wines. NEUBURGER This typical Austrian variety is an old cross of Roter Veltliner x Sylvaner which apparently stems from the Spitzer Graben community in the Wachau. Today it is found in Burgenland and Lower Austria, with only a few plantings in Styr ia and Vienna. Neuburger is not demanding of its location. It is even thrives on heavy, lime-rich soils, but brings its best results in primary rock. It is prone to variable fruit set if the weather is poor during flowering. The Neuburger results in restrained, classy wines that are sometimes somewhat neutral in fragrance, but aristocratic in expression. Interesting Neuburger wines can be discovered in Burgenland, Thermenregion, and especially in the upper Wachau region. RIESLING Synonym: Weisser Riesling The existence of this variety is document ed in Rüsselsheim in Germany as early as 1435. The Wachau also lays claim to being the origin of this variety, according to a document that mentions a vineyard by the name of Ritzling. Despite the theory being based solely on hypothesis, it is nevertheless an ingen ious idea. Riesling is encountered in Austria predominantly in the Wachau, Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental and Wagram wine-growing areas where it is the source of outstanding wines. It places high demands both on location and soil. The most fragrant and raciest wines stem from schist and primary rock. Riesling is therefore also found in other areas of Austria where primary rock or schist is found, such as Röschitz in the Weinviertel, Donnerskirchen, or Jois in Burgenland. The variety matures very late with the harvest usually at the end of October or beginning of November. It tests the patience of the vintner nearly each and every year. Its aristocratic bouquet exhibits peach, apricot, and citrus. Riesling is very racy and well structured. It develops continuously, gaining in complexity making it very suitable for ageing. This holds particularly true for the late harvested Spätlese and Auslese categories, or for the Smaragd wines of the Wachau. ROTGIPFLER The rare Rotgipfler is a natural cross of Savagnin x Roter Veltliner, most probably from Austria’s Thermenregion, and is therefore a half-sibling of Frühroter Veltliner, Neuburger and Zierfandler.. Its oldest documentation is from Styria in 1840. Together with Zierfandler, it established the reputation of the famous wines from Gumpoldskirchen. This variety exists almost exclu sively in Austria, particularly in its Thermenregion origin. It favours fertile medium-weight lime soils and warm hillside locations. It is sensitive to winter frosts, prone to botrytis, and matures late. The wine is golden-yellow and possesses a pronounced bouquet. It is refreshing and spicy, and for the most part, full-bodied, and rich in extract and alcohol. It is vinified dry, off-dry and sweet and is often paired with Zierfandler in a blend. ROTER VELTLINER The origin of this very old variety has not yet been clearly established. It is likely from Nie derösterreich (Lower Austria), where it is grown today in small quantities in the Kremstal and Wagram areas. The Roter Velt- Neuburger 23