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The Ultimate Austrian Wineguide 2023/24

VINTAGE 2021 varied from

VINTAGE 2021 varied from region to region. Vine budding and flowering were delayed, and unlike the wine-growing countries to the south and west of the main Alpine ridge, Austria was spared late frosts this time. June finally brought sunshine and warmth. The vines did not blossom until the end of the month, when a hot spell set in, causing some coulure and loose clusters. The heat also increased the risk of storms: Already on 24 June, a huge thunderstorm cell with heavy hail unleashed itself in the northern Weinviertel, causing severe damage to around 1,000 hectares of vineyards, some of which were completely destroyed. A tornado even touched down in the neighbouring Czech Republic. At the end of July, a hailstorm hit the wine villages of Rührsdorf and Rossatz in the Wachau, and there was also some damage to the Dürnstein and Loibner vineyards, as well as vineyards near Göttweig and in the Traisental. The red wine heartland of Mittelburgenland was also severely damaged by hail, while some vineyards on the Nussberg in Vienna, in the Styrian Vulkanland and in southern Styria were somewhat less affected. Overall, however, this year’s harvest suffered only minor losses due to the storms. Otherwise, July was a beautiful summer month as usual, but was replaced by a rather dull, rainy and cool August. On 1 September, however, the break the winegrowers had been waiting for arrived: a six-week period of sunny weather with only two days of rain. By mid-September, however, the nights had become quite cool, with a marked difference between day and night temperatures. This resulted in great aromatic development in the whites and vibrancy in the reds. At the end of October, a warm spell gave the Rieslings north of the Danube a welcome final push towards optimal ripeness. Oidium, peronospora and unwanted botrytis never stood a chance in these conditions, and in some areas, experienced winemakers and winegrowers said they had never seen such beautiful, perfectly healthy grapes at harvest time. Harvest was stress-free and spot-on. WHITE WINES WITH FRUIT AND OPTIMUM ACIDITY From the Wachau to Carnuntum, from the Weinviertel to southern Styria, there is pure delight in the wonderfully harmonious white wines whose components have been concentrated by the long growing season. This has resulted in wines with optimal sugar levels, rich extract, distinct freshness, exceptional aromatic diversity and a racy acidity structure. This is particularly beneficial for the main variety, Grüner Veltliner. In the 2021 vintage, the Grüner Veltliner has a fine savouriness as well as deep stone-fruit succulence and creamy suppleness. The Rieslings are also very promising, with full body and elegance thanks to a great acidity structure. Equally compelling are the ripe, powerful Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays, as well as the highly aromatic Muskateller. White wine enthusiasts will find their money’s worth in all regions and categories. Rarely has a vintage offered such superb and exciting wines. RED WINES WITH STRUCTURE AND POTENTIAL Carnuntum produced excellent red wines from all varieties and at all stages of maturity. The late harvest and long growing season may have been particularly beneficial for the sensitive Pinot Noir and St Laurent. As with the white single vineyard and reserve wines, they are expected to have great structure and maturity potential. In Burgenland, red wines benefited from optimal autumn conditions, especially the two leading varieties, Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. The long vegetation period and late harvest, as well as the analytical data, point to a 2019 red wine style, with a high degree of maturity, elegant structure and razor-sharp fruit. Some even see the most promising red wines of all time maturing in their barrels, which could rival the powerful and pronounced fruit wines of the exceptional 2011 and 2017 vintages. Among the French varietals, Cabernet in its Sauvignon and Franc variants could be particularly exciting this time around. 16 falstaff WINE GUIDE 2023/24

THE EXHILARATING ASCENDANCY OF VIENNESE WINE IS NO ACCIDENT. Behind it stands the renowned winegrower group WienWein, and their vision: to lead Vienna’s wine to a position among the world’s finest. The picturesque vineyards and their panorama of the Danube metropolis are inextricably woven into the heart & soul of the city. They present themselves full of pride to the beholder, and provide the WienWein winegrowers with ideal conditions for vinifying wines of great character. WWW.WIENWEIN.AT 17