The Ultimate Austrian Wineguide 2022/23

 VINTAGE 2021 W ith a

 VINTAGE 2021 W ith a harvest volume of around 2.4 million hectolitres, the 2021 vintage is in line with the long-standing averages. This is cause for a positive reaction because the 2021 vintage was less favourable in the rest of Europe. Some German wine-growing regions suffered drastic harvest losses; the major wine-growing countries, Italy, France, and Spain, also had to endure severe losses, primarily due to late frosts. VINTAGE 2021: A DREAM VINTAGE IN WHITE AND RED Kitzeck in Southern Styria Rarely has a vintage produced such a dreamlike result across all wine-growing regions. Above all, the magnificent autumn ensured perfect grape quality and ripe acidity, resulting in balanced, elegant white wines with depth of fruit and racy structures as well as powerful, complex red wines. THE WINE WEATHER 2021 After relatively low precipitation in winter, spring was a long-awaited arrival. April was cool and far too dry, May brought little sun but plenty of rain, even if the amount varied from region to region. The budding of the vines and their flowering were delayed, and unlike the wine-growing countries south and west of the main Alpine ridge, Austria was spared late frosts at this time. June finally brought sun and warmth. The vines did not blossom until the end of the month and had already fallen into a hot period, which in part led to coulure and resulted in loose-bunched grapes. The heat also increased the risk of storms. As early as 24 June, a massive thunderstorm cell with heavy hail unleashed itself in the northern Weinviertel, causing severe damage to around 1,000 hectares of vineyards and, in some cases, destroying them completely. A tornado even raged in the neighbouring Czech Republic. At the end of July, a hailstorm hit the winegrowing villages of Rührsdorf and Rossatz in the Wachau. There was also some damage in the Dürnstein and Loibner vineyards and the vineyards near Göttweig and the Traisen Valley. The red wine vineyards of the Mittelburgenland were also severely damaged by hail. At the same time, some vineyards on the Nussberg in Vienna, in the Styrian Vulkanland, and in southern Styria were affected to a lesser extent. Overall, however, the harvest losses due to the storms were fortunately manageable within that year. Otherwise, July was a beautiful summer month followed by a rather dull, rainy, and cool August. On 1 September, however, the significant change that the winegrowers had longed for occurred: a phase of sunny weather set in, which lasted for six weeks and was accompanied by only two days of rain. The nights, however, became quite cool in mid-September, so there was a marked difference between day and night temperatures. This resulted in excellent aroma development in the white wines and vibrancy in the red wines. At the end of October, a period of foehn weather conditions gave the Rieslings north of the Danube a welcome final ripening boost. Oidium, Peronospora, and undesirable Botrytis cinerea did not stand a chance under these conditions. In some areas, veteran winegrowers proclaimed that they had never seen such beautiful, completely healthy grapes at harvest time. The harvest time could be determined without any hesitation and with pinpoint accuracy. WHITE WINES WITH FRUITINESS AND RIPE ACIDITY From the Wachau to Carnuntum and from the Weinviertel to Southern Styria, there is unbridled joy over wonderfully hardy white wines with concentrated components due to the long vegetation period. This has resulted in wines with a high degree of phenolic ripeness that are consistently rich in extract, sparklingly fresh, with an unusual variety of aromas and a racy acidity structure. This is particularly beneficial for the Grüner Veltliner variety. In the 2021 vintage, it has a fine savouriness, deep stone fruit nuances, and creamy suppleness. However, the Rieslings are also very promising and exhibit a rich body, and, thanks to an excellent acidity structure, are very elegant. The fully ripe, powerful Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays, as well as the very aromatic Muscatels, are equally impressive. White wine fans get their money’s worth in all wine-growing regions and in many categories. Rarely has a vintage offered such superb wines. RED WINES WITH STRUCTURE AND POTENTIAL In Carnuntum, excellent red wines have been produced from all grape varieties and at all stages of maturity. The late harvest and the long vegetation period may have been incredibly beneficial for the two promising varieties, Pinot Noir and St. Laurent. Like the white wines from the single vineyards and reserve wines, they should have great structure and ageing potential. In Burgenland, the red wines profited from the optimal conditions in autumn, especially the two leading varieties, Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. The long vegetation period and late harvest, as well as the analytical data, speak for a red wine style like 2019, in which, despite a high degree of ripeness, an elegant structure and razor-sharp-defined fruit are at the forefront. Some even predict the most promising red wine of all time maturing in their barrels, which would rival the powerful and fruit-driven exceptional years of 2011 and 2017. Of the French grape varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc may well be particularly noteworthy this time around. 10 falstaff WINE GUIDE 2022/23 11