The Ultimate Austrian Wineguide 2022/23

 AUSTRIA’S GRAPE

 AUSTRIA’S GRAPE VARIETIES WHITE WINE VARIETIES old, unrecognizable variety was discovered in Burgenland and through DNA-sequencing was determined to be the second parent. This grape was named after is discovery location, St. Georgen, because its identity did not correspond to any other known variety. Nearly one third of theAustrian vineyard area is planted with Grüner Veltliner; in Niederösterreich it comprises half of the vineyards. The preference for this variety is due in part to its compatibility with the Lenz Moser vine trellising and training system. After World War II there was a search for productive varieties requiring little care. Grüner Veltliner fulfilled both these needs and moreover thrives in several different soil types. When cultivation is geared towards high yields, the resulting wine from Grüner Veltliner is light and racy, but still spicy and appetizing for everyday con sumption. The typical peppery-spicy aroma and flavour of the variety is often referred to as “Pfefferl”. When cultivation concen trates on quality ra ther than quantity, Grüner Veltliner amplifies its terroir with corresponding changes in taste and character. Meagre, poor primary rock soil, as is found in the Wachau, Krems, or Kamptal, bring wine dominated by firm mineral character and pleasant vegetal spiciness. When Grüner Veltliner is planted on fertile loess terraces in the Wagram or in the Weinviertel, the wine displays a supple, juicy fruitiness Bouvier reminiscent of an exotic fruit cocktail. Yield restrictions bring intense, expressive wines of impressive depth and complexity. Another important quality of Grüner Veltliner is its longevity. Riesling is considered internationally to be particularly capable of ageing, yet tastings of mature wines prove Grüner Veltliner to be at least as long-lived. I have tasted and drunk Grüner Veltliners on several occasions that were 50 years old or more with considerable enjoyment. In recent years experiments were performed in fermenting and maturing Grüner Veltliner in small oak barrels. These experiments have proved quite legitimate and have occasionally resulted in very interesting wines indeed. These concentrated wines are often very potent, sometimes with as much as 14.5 % alcohol. The first maturation results show, however, that after some years in the bottle, the character of Grüner Veltliner variety is obscured by the influence of new oak and prolonged contact with the fine lees. Nevertheless, these new Veltliner types have their fans. Falstaff magazine stages an annual competition called the “Grüner Veltliner Grand Prix”, which addresses the classic medium-bodied style of Grüner Veltliner. The wines involved are fermented dry with a maximum of four grams of residual sugar, have no more than 13% alcohol, and display crisp acidity. They provide refreshing drink ing pleasure and are suited as ideal accompaniment to many foods. As the white wine variety that is most associated with Austria, this unique grape offers vintners a broad spectrum of styles, from light wines all the way up to noble sweet Trockenbeerenauslese. Grüner Veltliner is increasingly popular internationally and has become more easily available in recent years. BOUVIER This rare variety has a striking fragrance, putting it among the aromatic varieties. It was first cultivated from a Burgundy seedling around 1900 in Radkersburg, Steiermark, by the estate owner Clotar Bouvier. The best Bouviers in Austria can be found among the sweet wine predicates Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, and Eiswein. Though it is a white wine, it has rath er low acidity. Because it has little character, its popularity in the vineyard is decreasing. © WSNA CHARDONNAY Synonym: Morillon When Chardonnay became fashionable in Austria 20 years ago, much was labelled Chardonnay that actually wasn’t. Many a Pinot Blanc attempted to profit from word creations like Pinot Chardonnay. Styrian Morillon is identical to Chardonnay. The term Feinburgunder was once often used in the Wachau for the variety, but since 1999, this synonym is no longer permitted. Chardonnay is vinified both in steel tanks and in new oak in Austria. Terms like “classic” and “tradition” can be misleading to international consumers since they denote the fresh and fruity style with out oak influence. A clue can be found in the specified alcohol content on labels since only the more potent wines, with over 13%, are matured in new oak barrels. Chardonnay occupies very small but widespread cultivation areas all over Austria, (around 3 % of Austria’s vineyard area). Despite this, the variety is of increasing impor tance, particularly in the upper quality segment. Chardonnay is found in every Austrian wine-growing area. FRÜHROTER VELTLINER Synonym: Malvasier This natural cross of Roter Veltliner x Sylvaner is not demanding in terms of its location and can even cope with meagre lime-rich soils. It is resistant against both winter and late frosts, and even against humidity. On the other hand, it ripens too early. The resulting wine has no particular bouquet, tends to be of high alcohol content, and is mild in acidity. The Frühroter Veltliner is by no means a trendy variety and makes up only 0.9 % of the Austrian vineyards. FURMINT This rare variety originates from the Tokaj region in north-eastern Hungary. It is the main component of the Hungarian Tokaji wine and has noth ing to do with the Tokay d’Alsace. In Austria it is encountered almost exclusively in Burgenland, particularly in the region around Rust where it is experiencing a small renaissance. The Furmint is demand ing of its location and requires warm, well-drained soils. It is sensitive to oidium, but has good resistance to botrytis. The wine is yellow-green when fermented dry and golden yellow in colour when Frühroter Veltliner sweet. It is intense in bouquet, often reminiscent of chamomile and quince, usually high in alcohol, and possesses racy acidity. Because it can achieve high degrees of extract and alcohol, it is very well suited to vinification of sweet predicated wines. GELBER MUSKATELLER Synonym: Muscat Blanc á petits grains Muscat is usually fermented dry in Austria and comprises a fragrant, light aperitif wine with refreshing acidity. Muscat has been documented in the Wachau since 1400. This variety also has a long tradition in Steiermark and Burgenland, yet the vineyard area remains very small since it is extremely susceptible to rot. It is very demanding of its location, sensitive to frost and fungal attacks, matures late, but is suitable for almost any soil, except lime. In addition to racy, fragrant, light, dry wines, fascinating sweet wines are also made from this variety in Austria. The best sweet examples can age for decades. GEWÜRZTRAMINER Synonyms: Roter Traminer, Gelber Traminer, Traminer In Austria, Traminer finds its most significant dissemination in Burgenland, the Thermenregion, and Steiermark. It is very demanding of its location and soil, has a low tolerance for lime, and is sensitive to frost. The wine 18 falstaff WINE GUIDE 2022/23 19