The Ultimate Austrian Wineguide 2022/23

 VINTAGE 2020

 VINTAGE 2020 cord-breaking amounts of precipitation. Due to this warm and humid weather, the winegrowers had their hands full to maintain the health of the grapes. Relatively low night temperatures positively affected the development of the aromas and the acid structure. The general grape harvest began in September and lasted until the end of October under reasonably good conditions. Therefore it was not only in the hail-affected winegrowing areas that a meticulous selection of the grapes and thus a cost-intensive harvesting operation was necessary. CLASSIC WHITES WITH AN ACID STRUCTURE In Lower Austria and Vienna, fresh and fruity wines have emerged with somewhat lower alcohol content and a racy acid structure. The varietal typicity is well expressed in the leading Grüner Veltliner variety, the Rieslings, and the entire Pinot family. It was somewhat more difficult for Muscat or Traminer to express their aromatic qualities fully. Wines in the Klassik and Gebietswein categories were particularly appealing, combining crisp freshness and distinct fruit with lively, ripe acidity. The performance of the white wines in the reserve category, which was only possible in small quantities in 2020 after meticulous selection, was excellent. The single vineyard and premium wines are characterised by balance, precision, structure, and stability for longer storage. The 2020 white wines of all varieties in Burgenland are characterised by a mature, harmonious flavour complemented by a racy acidity structure, so that you can expect a lot from Leithaberg & Co. In Styria, the lighter white wines of the regional wine line are already typical of the region. In Styria, the rainy low-pressure area in September also meant an inevitable disruption and led to interruptions in the harvest. Those who had the nerve to continue the harvest only a little while after the rainy phase were rewarded with lovely sunny October days that allowed the grapes to ripen perfectly. This made it possible to produce the very wines from the single vineyards that are the basis of the Styrian winegrowers’ excellence. The successful Styrian leading variety Sauvignon Blanc, which naturally benefits from a good water supply, turned out to be particularly attractive and characteristic. After the aforementioned wait, the Pinot family also produced an excellent yield, as did the Rieslings in the Sausal. The same applies to the West Styrian Schilcher wines, which, after a few years characterised by a high degree of ripeness, are once again bringing more characteristic freshness and raciness to the fore with a leaner stature. RED WINES WITH LIVELY ELEGANCE In the Lower Austrian red wine districts of the Thermenregion and Carnuntum, people were pleased to see fruit-driven, somewhat lighter, and elegant red wines, with all grape varieties and categories available; the best examples will reach the style of the finely fruity 2016s. At the end of the tastings, it was safe to say that Burgenland is one of the winners of the 2020 vintage. On the one hand, the heavy autumnal rains did not reach Lake Neusiedl’s vineyards. They were less effective in the central and southern areas of the Eisenberg. On the other hand, the region benefited more than average from the earlier ripening of the grapes due to the climate. For example, the grape harvest around Lake Neusiedl was completed before the weather changed in the second half of September. The only downside was some local hailstorms. Wine lovers in Burgenland appellations have high expectations for the red wine quality. As always in cooler years, it was necessary in 2020 to reduce the yield accordingly. All in all, Blaue Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, of superb quality, flourished, whilst the international varieties from ideally located sites were also able to excel. A VERY LIMITED SWEET TEMPTATION Regarding dessert wines, Spätlese (late harvest) but even noble sweet rarities such as Ruster Ausbruch DAC and Neusiedlersee DAC could be produced, albeit in minimal quantities. Occasionally, ice-cold nights even allowed the pressing of Eiswein (ice wine). However, this was preceded by an enormous amount of patience; it was not until 11 and 12 January 2021 that the necessary sub-zero temperatures were reached. The vintners were rewarded with sensational qualities. 14 falstaff WINE GUIDE 2022/23 15