Falstaff Magazin International Nr. 1/2022

wine / GRÜNER VELTLINER

wine / GRÜNER VELTLINER The sea breezes of California’s Central Coast are perfect for Grüner Veltliner. Inset: Natalie Christensen of Yealands in Marlborough. < smitten by Austrian examples, was that our climatic conditions are surprisingly similar to those found in Lower Austria, but especially when compared to the Kamptal region,” he says. “Add to this our ancient soils of metamorphic rocks...I dreamt that we could become a far outpost for this glorious and noble white variety.” Jacobs’ dream was not far-fetched since there are now more than 35 different Grüner labels in Adelaide Hills. There is even a “GGG” – a Grüner Growing Group. AOTEAROA Across the Tasman Sea, in New Zealand, the climate, while mostly maritime, also seems suited to Grüner’s predilections. Coopers Creek was the first to plant Grüner in New Zealand, in Gisborne. Yealands in Marlborough have produced Grüner Veltliner since 2012. “We’ve always been open to trialling new varieties,” says winemaker Natalie Christensen. She stresses the influence of the alluvial soils: “The Awatere Valley’s mineral character brings beautiful texture and length to our Grüner.” This is also what she strives for in her winemaking: “We try to build texture through alternative fermentation vessels like concrete egg and large format oak ovals. We like it to be vibrant, making it with a stainless steel tank component brings energy to the palate.” Rudi Bauer, the Austrian-born winemaker of Quartz Reef in Central Otago has made Grüner since 2012, the first in the region. His high expectations meant that he never released any wine until his 2016 vintage – but his current vintages are spot-on. I DREAMT THAT WE COULD BECOME A FAR OUTPOST FOR THIS GLORIOUS AND NOBLE WHITE VARIETY. LARRY JACOBS HAHNDORF HILL CALIFORNIA Back in America, Graham Tatomer is one of Grüner’s most vocal advocates: “I love the grape,” he says of his plantings in California’s Central Coast. Tatomer worked vintage in Austria, with another benchmark producer, Emmerich Knoll, in the Wachau and has made Grüner in California since 2010. His vineyards are no problem but the market is more complicated. “My Veltliners have done well in high-end restaurants, especially on tasting menus at Eleven Madison Park in New York and A.O.C. in Los Angeles. Retail has been much more difficult. It’s really down to the producers to spread the word about the grape among consumers.” GRÜNER LOVERS UNITE Outside Austria, there are just tiny pockets of this versatile variety. It took courage to defy the norm of planting well-known international grape varieties and go for a niche one instead. Its umlaut and name may hamper it on shop shelves, but once Grüner is in the glass, the case for this arch-Austrian grape becomes clear. Let’s see where it will sprout up next. < Photos: Yealands Wine Group, Shutterstock 62 falstaff mar – jun 2022

THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH. Nestled between the continental warmth and cool northern currents, Austrian wines flourish in the heart of Europe. These ideal climatic conditions foster the growth of noble and elegant wines with EU-protected designation of origin. You can always spot them by the red-white-red capsule tops and the official quality wine check number on the label. austrianwine.com