Falstaff Magazin International Nr. 1/2022

wine / BORDEAUX < On the

wine / BORDEAUX < On the Right Bank, the situation mirrored Médoc: conditions were also excellent. The grapes ripened comparatively early; Château Cheval Blanc started with Merlot on 10 September and Cabernet Franc was already in the cellar before the rains at the end of the month. Other well-known wineries were still waiting with their Bouschet (Cabernet Franc) and only completed the red wine harvest around 10 October. The Right Bank has a whole phalanx of excellent wines from 2019 that allow an authentic insight into the respective terroirs. Likewise in the south and south-east of Bordeaux, the vintage was also very successful. The warm temperatures produced rather opulent white wines with ripe fruit in Graves, which in one or two cases lacked a little of the liveliness that usually characterises the appellation. To maintain freshness, the white wine harvest was already in full swing at the end of August. The top estates of Pessac-Léognan, Above: Château Lafleur in Pomerol is a tiny property. Inset: Ripe Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. THIS VINTAGE JOINS THE RANKS OF THE MOST ELEGANT YEARS IN BORDEAUX, SHOWING FORM AND POSSESSING GREAT AGEING POTENTIAL. not only produced great reds but also outdid themselves with white; the grands crus of the region leave nothing to be desired. In the sweet wine appellations of Sauternes and Barsac, the summer drought had already taken on worrying features when on 26 July eagerly awaited rain brought a turn for the better. The rainfall and the warm weather from 20 September onwards finally set the noble rot in motion, but the harvesting of the grapes turned out to be complex and time-consuming because grey rot also set in. On 8 October, a dry and windy window of good weather opened up, and a large part of the sweet wine harvest could be brought in during this period. At Château d’Yquem, harvesting began on 10 October and within a few days most of the grand vin was in the cellar. The rains returned on 14 October and the more fragile terroirs were harvested during the breaks in the rainfall until 22 October. The result is a powerful, super-elegant Yquem with enormous potential. In summary, the 2019 vintage is one of those rare vintages where almost everything came together. We can look forward to great qualities in all appellations and from red wines – both on the Left and Right Bank – via white to sweet wines. All the big and famous names have excellent wines on offer but so do a variety of less prominent names – and all at an exceptionally attractive price, offering great value. Jean-Hubert Delon, owner of châteaux such as Léoville-Las-Cases in Saint-Julien on the Left Bank and Château Nenin in Pomerol on the Right Bank, summed up the 2019 vintage: “A delicious year that need not fear comparison with the very best. The picture was the same on both the Left and Right Bank: in every single phase, the grapes developed only towards perfection and gave the winemaker an outstanding harvest. Fruit of exquisite quality was available in abundance and was transformed into wines that have everything the consumer could wish for. They present themselves balanced, full-bodied, with a charming freshness and show a complex, pure and rich aromatic expression of their respective terroirs. 2019 joins the ranks of the most elegant years in Bordeaux, showing form and possessing great ageing potential.” Photos: mauritius images / Ivoha / Alamy / Alamy Stock Photos, Getty Images/ James Andanson, Wineries 56 falstaff mar – jun 2022

••••• Up to EUR / GBP 15 and USD 20 • EUR •••• •• 100 2019 CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC Saint-Émilion Fine exotic spice, ripe cherries and subtle hints of liquorice, some vanilla, clove and chocolate. Substantial, elegant, red berry notes, hints of raspberries and strawberries, fine spiciness, silky tannins, salty and incredibly freshly structured, juicy cherry dominates the finish, with nougat, caramel and mineral nuances, seems amazingly accessible, Cheval Blanc at its best. ••••• 100 2019 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC Saint-Émilion Dark ruby, purple reflections. Nuances of oak, dark forest fruit, a hint of cassis and liquorice, fine tobacco nuances, spices, orange zest, still a little reserved. Complex, cherries, well-integrated tannins, mineral and lasting, elegant style with a fine fruity finish, salty aftertaste with delicate liquorice, immensely harmonious, absolute ageing potential, however, patience is required. Leave to mature. ••••• 100 2019 CHÂTEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD Pauillac A hint of nougat, ripe cherries, a touch of cassis and oak, fresh orange zest, very inviting. Complex, substantial, ripe black cherry fruit, pleasant fruit expression, silky tannins, freshly structured, mineral, a hint of chocolate, already in this early state immensely seductive, great length, certain ageing potential, a wine of enormous charm and great finesse. BEST OF BORDEAUX 100 2019 CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR Pomerol Dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, subtle brightening on rim. Hints of oak, vanilla and tobacco, delicate dried herbs, floral nuances, blackberries and liquorice, very multi-faceted and suggestive, notes of nougat underneath. Juicy, ripe cherries, notes of blueberries, fine acidity, strong, perfectly integrated tannins, salty nuances on the finish, has superb length, will age and evolve for many years. ••••• 100 2019 CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE- LAS-CASES Saint-Julien Fine oak, a hint of nougat, dark berries underneath, some cardamom, dark cherries, a hint of candied oranges. Powerful, taut, tightly-meshed, fresh acidity, spicy, supporting tannins, a hint of chocolate, convincing balance, mineral and very long lasting, cherries on the finish, a vin de garde, can also be tasted young when decanted, enormous potential. ••••• 100 2019 CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD Pauillac Fine dark berry fruit, a hint of cassis and liquorice, fresh tangerine zest, nuances of cedar, the bouquet exercises noble restraint. Complex, fullbodied, super elegant texture, fine expression, ripe, long, silky tannins, great density, ripe cherries, mineral, fine spice, convincing length, certain ageing potential, will enter maturity early, so be sure to stock up. ••••• 100 2019 PÉTRUS Pomerol Dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, subtle brightening on rim. Ripe dark berry fruit, black cherries, a hint of dried rose petal, candied violets, delicate red nuances, some oak and black truffle in the background, opens up with more air in the glass. Complex, dark fruit, fine texture, ripe tannins, underpinned by a fine acidity structure, taut, mineral and long lasting, already endowed with convincing balance. ••••• 100 2019 CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET Pauillac For the first time since 2011, the proportion of Merlot is somewhat higher, the bouquet thus more characterised by cherries than the usual cassis de Pauillac, delicate nougat, caramel, fine herbal spice. Powerful, tightly-meshed, chocolatey touch, ripe tannins, complexity, length and spice, very independent personality, a huge promise for the future. This wine has everything a world-class wine needs. ••••• 99 2019 CHÂTEAU BEAUSÉJOUR- DUFFAU-LAGARROSSE Saint-Émilion Attractive dark berry confit, nuances of liquorice, floral notes, delicately mineral, a hint of orange zest, a fine bouquet. Juicy and elegant, with ripe cherries, full of energy and freshness, fine tannins, salty minerality, lemony touch on the finish, a really delicate style with enormous length and great ageing potential. ••••• EUR / GBP 15 – 30 and USD 20 – 35 EUR / GBP 31 – 50 and USD 36 – 60 / GBP 51 – 100 and USD •• 61 – 110 above EUR / GBP ••••• ••• 100 and USD 110 mar – jun 2022 falstaff 57