Falstaff Magazin International Nr. 1/2022

wine / CALIFORNIA BEST

wine / CALIFORNIA BEST OF CALIFORNIA 97 2018 VÉRITÉ LE DÉSIR Sonoma County A shy nose hints at dark berry and some graphite only. It is on the palate that the fine freshness, the superfine tannin, like combed, starched silk, breaks though. There is crunch, there is freshness, there is this insistent, lasting, long and pure, tart red berry fruit. This is Cab Franc the California way. AK ••••• 97 2017 TESSERON ESTATE PYM- RAE, Napa Valley From the Californian sister estate of Château Pontet-Canet. Deep ruby, purple reflections. Black berry fruit underlaid with sweet exotic spices, hints of clove, cinnamon and vanilla, ripe black cherries, hints of cedar. Taut, elegant texture, notes of cassis, ripe blueberries, strong tannins, chocolaty nuances on the finish, has a long lasting finish, very good prospects. PM ••••• 97 2016 CAIN FIVE Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley Crushed fruit of the forest plays on the nose alongside graphite and charcoal. On the palate juicy, welldefined plum joins in, tannins are superfine, lending a gracefully firm structure. There are glimpses of earth and chocolate and more of that glorious plum fruit. AK ••••• 97 2018 CARDINALE Napa Valley The nose is of lifted blackberry and dark forest fruit on this blend, made from a combination of Napa’s mountain fruit. There are overtones of gravel, of stone, of hints of smoke. The palate is immediately concentrated, powerful and intense. This is like a primal force, bold but toned, rich but fresh. Ripe tannins coat the mouth, assert themselves while that dark fruit lingers. AK ••••• 97 2018 DAOU SOUL OF A LION Adelaida District, Paso Robles A pure scent of cassis is joined by graphite and sea breeze on the nose. The palate brings an immediate sense of freshness and structure, of toned richness and density. The tannins are firm but seem to crumble into velvet. There is fine freshness and infinitely more of that lovely, scented, pure blackcurrant fruit. The finish is mouth-watering and has a hint of cocoa. AK ••••• 96 2018 RIDGE MONTE BELLO Santa Cruz Mountains The sumptuous vanilla tones of American oak frame the tart blackberry notes on the nose beautifully. The palate comes in with exquisite freshness and more of that alluring, ripe but tart blackberry fruit and baking spice. There is verve and brightness here, and a lovely sinuousness that shows off the elegant, firm tannins and the aromatic nuance of the fruit. Such a classic. AK ••••• 28 falstaff mar – jun 2022 95 2017 MONDAVI TO KALON RESERVE, Oakville, Napa Valley Smoke and a touch of caramel play on the nose before dark plum fruit becomes apparent. The palate is fresh, has flow, and unfolds into a smooth blanket of dark fruit with overtones of tar, mocha, smoke and salted caramel. The tannins are dense and ripe and the finish has lovely, mouth-watering freshness. AK ••••• 95 2017 TABLAS CREEK ESPRIT DE TABLAS Adelaida District, Paso Robles Smoke and spice immediately frame crushed red berry on the nose. The palate seems to carry darker, more brooding fruit at its core. Layers of fruit reveal themselves with aromatic nuance while gentle tannins lend texture. There is chalkiness and vivid freshness that balances the sunshine that seems visceral in the glass. The spice on the finish is utterly appetising. AK •••• Up to EUR / GBP 15 and USD 20 EUR • •• EUR •••• 94 2019 L’AVENTURE ESTATE CUVÉE, Paso Robles Deep ruby, purple reflections, discreetly brightened at the rim. Delicate animal spice, black berries, a hint of liquorice and black olives, tobacco nuances, candied orange zest in the background. Complex, sweet dark fruit of blackberries and plums, firm, somewhat demanding tannin, nougat on the finish, good length, will benefit from bottle age. PM •••• / GBP 15 – 30 and USD 20 – 35 EUR / GBP 31 – 50 and USD 36 – 60 / GBP 51 – 100 and USD 61 – 110 ••••• above EUR / GBP 100 and USD 110 Photos: Wineries

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