Falstaff Magazin International 01/2021

wine / PORTUGAL

wine / PORTUGAL Mechanical extraction at Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos Below: Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas < Single Quinta Port, but rather a Single Vineyard Vintage Port, it is the most expensive wine of its kind. Quinta do Noval is characterised by intensity and impeccable balance. TAYLOR’S QUINTA DE VARGELLAS As early as the 1820s, Quinta de Vargellas was appreciated as the origin of some of the best Port grapes. Originally, Vargellas consisted of three parts with different owners, but Taylor’s managed to purchase and unite the estate in the late 19th century since when the quinta has formed an essential part of the legendary Taylor’s Vintage Port. In years when Taylor’s does A glass of Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage 2000 being poured. not declare a vintage, Quinta de Vargellas may be made as a Single Quinta Port. Since 1895, this has been the case over forty times. This has led to Vargellas being mistakenly regarded by many a Port novice as a kind of second wine to Taylor’s. In truth, due to its outstanding terroir, this Single Quinta Port is more than a match for most Vintage Ports. Quinta de Vargellas is characterised by concentration, intensity and ageworthiness. GRAHAM’S QUINTA DOS MALVEDOS The magnificent Quinta dos Malvedos estate with its 160 hectares/395 acres of vineyards has been owned by Graham’s Photos: Antonio Luis Campos, Taylor‘s Quinta de Vargellas, Carlos Porfírio, Malvedos 72 falstaff winter 2021

A panoramic view of Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos, showing a landscape where olive trees and vines - and the odd citrus tree - bear precious fruit. MORE QUINTAS Other Single Quinta Ports to look out for: DOW’S QUINTO DO BOMFIM DOW’S QUINTA SENHORA DA RIBEIRA WARRE’S QUINTA DA CAVADINHA COCKBURN’S QUINTA DOS CANAIS TAYLOR’S QUINTA DE TERRA FEITA CROFT’S QUINTA DA ROÊDA BRANCO’S QUINTO DOS MUROS THE QUINTA HAS AN UNUSUALLY HIGH PERCENTRAGE OF TERRACED VINEYARDS, SUPPORTED BY DRYSTONE WALLS DATING TO THE 18TH CENTURY. and the Symington family since 1890. Its name refers to the dangerous rapids of the Douro river called os Malvedos. The vineyard is located in the transition zone between the Cima Corgo and Upper Douro subregions. This means it benefits from slightly more rainfall as well as more sunshine. The quinta has an unusually high percentage of terraced vineyards, supported by drystone walls dating from the 18th century. It is from here that one of the most precious wines of Graham’s is produced: Stone Terraces Vintage Port. It is strictly limited to a few thousand bottles being only the best that Quinta dos Malvedos has to offer. Quinta do Malvedos is characterised by firm but velvety tannins. < winter 2021 falstaff 73