Falstaff Magazin International 01/2021

wine / 100 ICONIC RED

wine / 100 ICONIC RED WINES CLOS DES TRUFFIERS CHÂTEAU LA NÉGLY, LANGUEDOC Jean Paux-Roset, together with oenologist Paul Gros, crafts top cuvées L’Ancely, La Porte du Ciel and Clos des Truffiers, the latter from 1962-planted Syrah vines. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2011, 2010, 2007, 2006 CHAVE HERMITAGE JEAN LOUIS CHAVE, RHÔNE Hermitage is the most famous site for Syrah in the world. The Chave family, tracing its history back to 1481, owns plots there and makes wines with a precision that shows each facet of the vineyard. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2017, 2015, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2007, 2006 HERMITAGE LA CHAPELLE JABOULET, RHÔNE Takeover by the Frey family spelled a quality renaissance recalling legendary vintages 1961, 1978 and 1990. The Syrah for this wine is from the Bessards, Le Méal, Greffieux and Rocoules parcels. Recommended recent vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2017, 2015 , 2012, 2010, 2009 CÔTE-RÔTIE LA TURQUE E. GUIGAL, RHÔNE Known as the “La-Las”, the Syrah trio of the parcels La Turque, La Landonne and La Mouline present all the finesse of the Côte-Rôtie vineyard. But which one to choose? All three are stunning. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2012, 2010, 2009, 2005 L’ERMITE M. CHAPOUTIER, RHÔNE Michel Chapoutier loves to provoke but he also is a visionary. He may make a high volume of wines but his top segment shows that he is playing at the very summit of what is possible. Recommended recent vintages: 2005, 2000, 1995, 1990 LE BOURG CLOS ROUGEARD, LOIRE This tiny parcel of Cabernet Franc vines on pure limestone has been the shining star of this estate and the Loire Valley for decades. A recent ownership change lets collectors hold their breath. Recommended recent vintages: 2015, 2014, 2013, 2010, 2007, 2005, 2003, 1989 ITALY Despite its ancient history of viticulture, Italy’s reputation as a fine wine nation was not formed until the 1970s and 1980s. Today, we cannot even imagine a fine wine list without Italian icons, without the likes of Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Co. MONFORTINO GIACOMO CONTERNO, BAROLO Monfortino is cult. Made by Roberto Conterno, the grapes are from the monopole site of La Francia in Serralunga. It stands out, even in poor years, 2014 is a prime example. Recommended recent vintages: 2015, 2014, 2013, 2010, 2008, 2004, 2002, 2001 GRANBUSSIA PODERI ALDO CONTERNO, BAROLO Granbussia is made only in the best years as a prime selection of the parcels Colonello, Cicala and Romirasco, all of them in the large Bussia vineyard. Recommended recent vintages: 2010, 2009, 2008, 2006, 2005, 2001, 2000, 1999 ROCCHE DI CASTIGLIONE VIETTI, BAROLO Rocche di Castiglione is a steeply sloping, southeast-facing site, its sandstone brings forth scented, intense wines characterised by elegance and silky tannin – and the Viettis are masters of the genre. Recommended recent vintages: 2016, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2007 ALESTE LUCIANO SANDRONE, BAROLO First bottled commercially in 1985, Aleste is made by Luciano Sandrone in the top site Cannubi. It was called Cannubi Boschis until 2013 when it got its current name. It is always chiseled and polished. Recommended recent vintages: 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009 CERETTA VIGNA BRICCO ELIO ALTARE, BAROLO Elio Altare is seen as the great innovator of Barolo. He started vinifying Barolo is small barrels. The Ceretta vineayrd in Serralunga brings forth profound and long-lived wines with real precision. Recommended recent vintages: 2016, 2015, 2014, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008 lunga. It is cult. The taut, dense wines have notes of truffle, leather and liquorice. Recommended recent vintages: 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007 BAROLO BARTOLO MASCARELLO, BAROLO Mascarello who died in 2005 always held that the best wines are blends of several sites. The wine is thus made from Cannubi, Rue and San Lorenzo in Barolo and Rocche dell’Annunziata in La Morra. Recommended recent vintages: 2016, 2015, 2014, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008 MONPRIVATO MASCARELLO GIUSEPPE E FIGLIO, BAROLO Tradition is writ large here: the wines ferment for several weeks in stainless steel and then mature in large barrels. They are always beguilingly raspberry-scented and sport super-fine tannins. Recommended recent vintages: 2016, 2015, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 1999 SORÌ SAN LORENZO GAJA, BARBARESCO First made a single-vineyard wine in 1967, one of the first in the region, San Lorenzo always shows the greatest polish and finesse. Angelo Gaja is one of Italy’s and the world’s leading winemakers Recommended recent vintages: all of them SASSICAIA TENUTA SAN GUIDO, TUSCANY Created in the 1940s by Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta from Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, the wine’s first official vintage was 1968. Today its finessed fruit is world famous. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2009 SARMASSA ROBERTO VOERZIO, BAROLO Tiny yields and high density planting are the secrets behind Sramassa’s success. This wine is always dense and wonderfully textured. Recommended recent vintages: 2013, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2004 VIGNA RIONDA MASSOLINO, BAROLO Wines from Vigna Rionda are seen as the epitome for the profound and long-lived Barolos of Serra- Photos: Shutterstock, Sassicaia, Clos Rougeard 62 falstaff winter 2021

SOLAIA MARCHESI ANTINORI, TUSCANY It was in 1978 that Piero Antinori and his legendary winemaker Giacomo Tachis decided to bottle the Cabernet Sauvignon of that year separately. Today it is the varietal counterpart to Tignanello. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2013, 2010, 2004, 1997 REDIGAFFI TUA RITA, TUSCANY Rita Tua and her husband Vigilio Bisti bought a small Tuscan country estate in 1984. They planted Cabernet and Merlot and brought their first wines to market in the 1990s - with great success. Recommended recent vintages: 2019, 2018, 2016, 2013, 2010, 2008, 2006, 2001 ORNELLAIA TENUTA DELL’ORNELLAIA, TUSCANY Lodovico Antinori, Piero Antinori’s younger brother, founded Ornellaia in 1981 by planting not just Cabernet as in the neighbouring Tenuta San Guido, but Merlot – an innovation at the time. Recommended recent vintages: 2016, 2015, 2014, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008 MASSETO MASSETO, TUSCANY When Lodovico Antinori, had his Ornellaia vineyards planted in the 1980s, one site was distinctly different: Masseto, rich in blue loam. It was planted entirely to Merlot and first released in 1987. In 2018 Masseto was separated from the Ornellaia stable and got its own winery. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2016, 2015, 2013, 2010, 2007, 2006, 2005 FLACCIANELLO FONTODI, TUSCANY First made in 1981, Flaccianello was one of the first wines made from pure Sangiovese in the Chianti Classico appellation. The grapes grow in Panzano’s famous Conca d’Oro, some of the best land in the entire region. Wines mature in both barriques and amphorae. Recommended recent vintages: 2017, 2016, 2015, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2007, 2006 CERRETALTO BRUNELLO CASANOVA DI NERI, TUSCANY Casanova di Neri counts among the outstanding estates of Montalcino. Apart from Etichetta Bianca, and Tenuta Nuoava, Cerretalto occupies a special position, grown on a single site, it shows depth, compact fruit and mineral verve. Recommended recent vintages: 2015, 2013, 2011, 2010, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2004 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO BIONDI SANTI, TUSCANY Biondi Santi is the name that put Montalcino on the map with distinct clonal selections made as early as the 1880s. In the best years, a Brunello Riserva is made. The wines age effortlessly. Recommended recent vintages: 2013, 2012, 2010, 2006, 2001, 1997, 1995, 1985 SAFFREDI FATTORIA LE PUPILLE, MAREMMA Situated in southern Tuscany, near Grosseto and close to the sea, Saffredi has made its name with Morellino. Saffredi, however, first made in 1987, is based on Cabernet Sauvignon. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2016, 2014, 2012, 2008, 2007 MESSORIO LA MACCHIOLE, BOLGHERI Eugenio Compoli and Cinzia Merli made their first Messorio in 1994 after planting a vineyard in Bolgheri. The pure Merlot shows compact fruit. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2016, 2015, 2013, 2012, 2010, 2008 1990, 1995, 2000, 2005 < Tuscany is one of Italy’s key regions for iconic reds. Foto: xxxxxxxxxxx winter 2021 falstaff 63