Falstaff Magazin International 01/2021

wine / 100 ICONIC RED

wine / 100 ICONIC RED WINES Some wines are more spoken about than actually drunk. They are coveted collectors’ items, bought and sold as an investment, slumbering in deep, cold cellars until opened for a special occasion. Most of us may never taste them, yet they represent an ideal, the culmination of a grape, a region, a country, a style. They have become iconic. Let us take you on a global journey of vinous dream tickets, through classic and new regions alike. FRANCE France has to take the top spot when it comes to iconic wines – while the wine culture of other countries is as old and as ingrained, it is France’s culture of fine wine that sets it apart – hence the reputational head start – not just by decades but often by centuries. LATOUR BORDEAUX Latour counts as the most powerful of the three Premier Grands Crus of the Médoc. Under the general direction of Frédéric Engerer, cellar master Hélène Genin crafts uncompromising quality. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2016, 2010, 2009, 2005, 2003, 2000, 1996 LAFITE-ROTHSCHILD BORDEAUX In 1855 Château Lafite was one of the original four Premier Grands Crus of the Médoc. The Rothschild family bought it in 1868. Today it is run by Saskia de Rothschild and technical director Eric Kohler. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2016, 2010, 2009, 2005, 2003, 2000, 1996, MOUTON-ROTHSCHILD BORDEAUX Bought by Nataniel de Rothschild in 1853, his visionary grandson Eric achieved the impossible: the château‘s upgrade to Premier Grand Cru Classé. Artists such as Picasso have created labels. Recommended recent vintages: 2019, 2018, 2016, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2005, 2000 MARGAUX BORDEAUX The wine’s reputation – already famous in the 18th century – precedes that of the château which was not built until 1815. Margaux is seen as the silkiest, most elegant expression of the entire Left Bank. Recommended recent vintages: 2019, 2018, 2016, 2015, 2010, 2009, 2005 HAUT-BRION BORDEAUX This château can look back on a 500-year history. Bought in 1935 by US-banker Clarence Dillon, it is now owned by Prince Robert of Luxembourg who ensures the most exacting standards. Recommended recent vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2016, 2015, 2010, 2009 CHEVAL BLANC BORDEAUX Located on the Right Bank in the appellation of St. Émilion, Cheval Blanc is known for its elegant, Cabernet Franc dominated wines. It is a jewel in the crown of luxury conglomerate LVMH. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2016, 2015, 2010, 2009, 2005, 2000, 1998 ANGÉLUS BORDEAUX This St. Émilion estate was created when Domaine de Mazerat acquired Clos de l’Angélus. Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoa runs it today, daughter of oenologist Hubert de Boüard de Laforest. Recommended recent vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2016, 2015, 2010, 2009, 2005 PÉTRUS BORDEAUX Owned by the Moueix family, this legendary Pomerol estate owes its status to a particular plateau of gravel and iron-rich clay which lends a seductive note of truffle to this Merlot-based wine. Recommended recent vintages: 2020, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2012, 2010, 2009 LAFLEUR BORDEAUX Henri Geloud founded this tiny estate just few yards from Château Pétrus. His great-great-grandchildren Sylvie and Jacques Guinaudeau run Lafleur today and farm their vines organically. Recommended recent vintages: 2020, 2018, 2016, 2015, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2005 VIEUX-CHÂTEAU-CERTAN BORDEAUX Wine lovers already paid top dollar for VCC, as it is known, in the 19th century. Winemaker Alexandre Thienpont creates a point of difference with a larger proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Recommended recent vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2010, 2009 ROMANÉE-CONTI DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI, BURGUNDY This wine is the epitome of a complete, age-worthy and aristocratic Pinot Noir. The stuff of dreams. Just 5,000 bottles are normally made each year. This veritable cult is sold on strictest allocation. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2015, 2012, 2010, 2005, 2002, 1999, 1996 CHAMBERTIN DOMAINE LEROY, BURGUNDY This domaine, run by the energetic Lalou Bize Leroy, owns half a hectare of the grand cru Chambertin. Farmed biodynamically since 1998, the fewer than 1,000 bottles made each year are like gold dust. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2016, 2015, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008 CHAMBERTIN DOMAINE ARMAND ROUSSEAU, BURGUNDY Éric and Cyrielle Rousseau, the third and fourth generation at the estate respectively, own 2.15 hectares of the grand cru vineyard. Some of the parcels were planted in the 1930s. Recommended recent vintages: 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012 LE MUSIGNY JACQUES-FRÉDÉRIC MUGNIER, BURGUNDY The grand cru vineyard Musigny is considered the finest, most poetic of all grands crus on the Côte de Nuits. Since taking over in 1985, former petrochemical engineer Frédéric Mugnier has raised it to new heights. Recommended recent vintages: 2019, 2018, 2015, 2013, 2010, 2009, 2005, 2002 CLOS DE LA ROCHE DOMAINE DUJAC, BURGUNDY This grand cru site brings forth some of the most mineral red Burgundies. Jacques Seysses and his son Jeremy express the vineyard’s character with the utmost finesse. An address with cult status. Recommended recent vintages: 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2013, 2012, 2010 CLOS DE DUCS MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE, BURGUNDY Formerly owned by the Dukes of Burgundy, this 2.15 hectare monopole premier cru in the village of Volnay deserves grand cru status. Poor, stony soils result in incredibly fine-boned wines that reveal their true potential over decades. Recommended recent vintages: 2019, 2018, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2010, 2005 Photo: Deepix - Cheval, mauritius images / Irina Naoumova / Alamy, Wineries 60 falstaff winter 2021

Bordeaux, represented here by Château Angélus (left) and Burgundy, with Côtede-Nuits, are the two most legendary regions for fine wines. LA ROMANÉE DOMAINE COMTE LIGER-BELAIR, BURGUNDY This grand cru vineyard measures just 0.85 hectares. The vine age is remarkable, some were planted more than 100 years ago. The very poor soils make the wines delicate and scented. Recommended recent vintages: 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012 VIGNE DE L’ENFANT JÉSUS BOUCHARD PÈRE ET FILS, BURGUNDY Right in the heart of the Grèves vineyard in Beaune, this extraordinary parcel of vines was given to the Carmelite nuns of Beaune in celebration of Anne of Austria giving birth to future King Louis XIV. Recommended recent vintages: 2019, 2018, 2017, 2010, 2009, 2005, 1999 LES AMOUREUSES DOMAINE GEORGES ROUMIER, BURGUNDY Christophe Roumier has just a few vines in this premier cru vineyard in the village of Chambolle, but they are special. Planted in 1947, they bring forth a wine that does justice to its poetic name. Recommended recent vintages: 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012 AU CROS PARANTOUX MÉO-CAMUZET, BURGUNDY Next to the the six grands crus owned by this estate, Cros Parantoux takes a special position. This premier cru borders onto grand cru Richebourg in Vosne-Romanée and was made famous by the late Henri Jayer. Recommended recent vintages: 2019, 2018, 2016, 2015, 2012, 2010, 2005 RAYAS CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, RHÔNE Château Rayas has been in the hands of the Reynaud family since 1880. What sets this wine apart is that it is made from 100% Grenache, when most other wines of the appellation are blends. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2012, 2010, 2009 HOMMAGE À JACQUES PERRIN CHÂTEAU BEAUCASTEL, RHÔNE The Perrin family owns many estates in the Rhône Valley. This cuvée, first made in 1989, based mostly on Mourvèdre is only made in the best vintages. Recommended recent vintages: 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2012, 2010, 2009 JANASSE VIEILLES VIGNES CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, RHÔNE Janasse makes four red Châteauneuf cuvées called Prestige, Tradition, Chaupin and the flagship Vieilles Vignes, made from 100-year-old vines. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2012, 2010, 2007, 2000 CLOS DES PAPES CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, RHÔNE The wines from this pioneering estate which started bottling and marketing its own wines as early as 1902, and adopted organic farming early on, are made from old vines with tiny yields. Recommended recent vintages: 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2007 < winter 2021 falstaff 61