Falstaff Magazin International 00/2021

wine / RIESLING BEST OF

wine / RIESLING BEST OF Lucas Pichler, right, is one of Austria‘s Riesling superstars. His contemporary winery is surrounded by his vineyards. < quantity to quality over the past three decades, in combination with climate change, has wrought a revolution. Riesling often struggled to ripen fully in a pre- climate-change Germany. Now Riesling ripens fully and makes expressive, properly dry wines in every vintage. One of Germany’s foremost Riesling winemakers, Klaus-Peter Keller from Rheinhessen, says: “Riesling is a unique grape variety. It is one of the great winners of climate change. Grapes would not always ripen in the 1970s and 80s but ever since the 1990s one good vintage followed another. The 2019 vintage was like a crowning glory.“ For Keller, the 2020 vintage is a worthy follow-up. The string of great vintages and ever more honed site expressions across Germany resulted in much positive reporting. He notes steadily increasing demand for his Rieslings, especially in Asia. He also notes a change in how Riesling is perceived: “Drinkers across the world – with curiosity and openness – are learning to appreciate Riesling in all its uniqueness. We still have some way to go but we are moving in the right direction.“ The regions of Rheingau, Mosel with its tributaries Saar and Ruwer, Pfalz, Rheinhessen and Nahe are Germany’s Riesling DRINKERS ACROSS THE WORLD – WITH CURIOSITY AND OPENNESS – ARE LEARNING TO APPRECIATE RIESLING IN ALL ITS UNIQUENESS. KLAUS-PETER KELLER, WINEMAKER Austrian Riesling RIESLING KAMPTAL DAC RIED 100 ZÖBINGER HEILIGENSTEIN 1ÖTW ALTE REBEN 2019 Weingut Bründlmayer, Kamptal Willi Bründlmayer is crafting true monuments of Riesling from the Heiligenstein site. RIESLING SMARAGD “UNENDLICH“ 99 2019 Weingut F. X. Pichler, Wachau Lucas Pichler‘s Unendlich – or infinite – Riesling has become a benchmark for the Wachau. RIESLING SMARAGD RIED 99 SINGERRIEDEL 2019 Weingut Franz Hirtzberger, Wachau Rieslings from this terraced, steep site in Spitz are synonymous with Wachau excellence. RIESLING SMARAGD RIED 98 ACHLEITHEN 2019 Weingut Rudi Pichler, Wachau Achleithen probably is the most iconic site of the Wachau, often spoken of in hushed tones. RIESLING KAMPTAL DAC RIED HEI- 97 LIGENSTEIN 1ÖTW ALTE REBEN 2019 Weingut Jurtschitsch, Kamptal Another exquisite interpretation of this legendary Kamptal site: vibrant and captivating. Photos: @chrissingerme, Shutterstock, provided 64 falstaff summer 2021

IIT IS SAFE TO SAY THAT GERMAN RIESLING HAS NEVER BEEN AS GOOD, DIVERSE OR BREATH- TAKING AS IT IS TODAY. View of Kayserberg – Alsace vineyards are sheltered by the Vosges mountains. Below: a limestone rock , but there is granite, sandstone and basalt too. hotspots. They all have their distinct characters, informed by soils and climate: Pfalz Rieslings from Triassic soils of limeand sandstone are traditionally dry and show ideal proportions of body, substance, fruit and freshness. Rheinhessen has varied soils including pure limestone and rhyolite. Its dry Rieslings range from cool, soothing limestone elegance to rhyolite savouriness. The Rheingau with its quartzite, schist, loam, loess and clay soils has a more moderate climate and makes statuesque, poised Rieslings. The cooler Mosel, Saar and Ruwer valleys are dominated by Devonian slate: the marriage of Riesling and slate results in nervy, fine-boned Rieslings of unique thrill. Formerly marginal in climate, these Rieslings now ripen fully and are true originals. Most vineyards here are vertiginously steep. The Nahe, also formerly marginal, has the most complex soils, many of volcanic origin: its dry Rieslings are hair-raising. It is safe to say that German Riesling has never been as good, diverse or breath-taking as it is today. FRANCE – ALSACE Almost all of France’s Riesling is in Alsace. The region shares much of its history with Germany, which explains the grape‘s predominance in this north-eastern French region. A fifth of Alsace vineyards or 3,126 hectares/7,724 acres, are planted to Riesling along the sunny, well-drained, steep and east-facing slopes of the Vosges mountains. The shelter afforded by the mountains and a mild climate afford Riesling the long growing season it needs. The best single vine- yards are designated grands crus – they cover just 8% of Alsace vineyards and make just 3% of Alsace wine. These 51 grands crus have diverse soils – limestone, sandstone, granite, marl and basalt. One of the most famous grands crus is Schlossberg, composed of granite and gneiss. Catherine Faller of Domaine Weinbach likens the Schlossberg to a tool that carves and cuts the “diamond“ that is Riesling. The precision and clarity of Schlossberg Rieslings are a marvel. Search out the grand cru Rieslings – they are spectacular: often full-bodied, shimmering with fruity and spicy notions of richness – but they can also be taut and linear. So taste and find a producer whose style suits you. < BEST OF Alsace Riesling RIESLING CLOS SAINT URBAIN RAN- 98 GEN DE THANN GRAND CRU 2013 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht A legend in its own right from the southernmost and only volcanic Alsace grand cru. RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG GRAND 97 CRU “CLOS DES CAPUCINES“ 2012 Domaine Weinbach Schlossberg Rieslings, grown on this steep granitic slope are always precise and thrilling. RIESLING VORBOURG “CLOS SAINT 97 LANDELIN“ 2014 Domaine Muré - Clos St Landelin Vorbourg juts out into the Rhine plain. Its limestone soils lend inherent elegance to the wine. RIESLING CUVÉE FRÉDÉRIC EMILE 97 2017, Trimbach Trimbach is known for its racy, uncompromisingly dry long-lived styles of Riesling. GROSSI LAÜE RIESLING 2013 96 Famille Hugel The Hugel family relase their Grossi Laüe (a dialect term for grand cru) with bottle age. summer 2021 falstaff 65