Falstaff Magazin International 00/2021

wine / RIESLING

wine / RIESLING Vineyards at the foot of the Rotenfels mountain in Germany‘s dramatic Nahe region. Right: winemaker Cornelius Dönnoff. < RIESLING’S NATURE Riesling’s most distinctive feature is its naturally high acidity. It is what makes the myriad flavours of Riesling so clear-cut and puts everything into sharp relief – sometimes it even feels electric. This is not to everyone’s taste – but for those who are smitten it is a hit they crave in every wine. Acidity is also what allows for residual sweetness in wine: sugar from the grape that has not fully fermented into alcohol, thus leaving some sweetness in the wine. It is only by virtue of Riesling’s acidity that this sweetness comes across as balanced in the wine. Few varieties can pull this high-wire act off with such bravado as Riesling. That said, our focus here is on dry Riesling. Two further factors captivate Riesling lovers: Riesling can mirror its origin and provenance in almost uncanny fashion; it can also age and evolve for decades. Tasting Rieslings from the same vintage, made by the same winemaker in the same cellar, from vines planted at the same time but grown in different soils – say limestone, RIESLING EXCELS WHERE OTHERS FOUNDER. THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL THINGS TO CONTEMPLATE ABOUT RIESLING: THAT THE GREATEST STRUGGLE BRINGS FORTH THE GREATEST BEAUTY. Photos: DWI, ANDREAS DURST, provided 62 falstaff summer 2021

BEST OF German Riesling 98 SCHLOSSBÖCKELHEIMER FELSENBERG FELSENTÜRMCHEN RIESLING GG 2019, Weingut Dönnhoff, Nahe Weingut Dönnhoff is one of the top estates in the Nahe, loved for their crystalline style. FORSTER KIRCHENSTÜCK RIESLING 98 GG 2018, Weingut von Winning, Pfalz This site was already designated one of Pfalz‘s best in a 1828 official vineyard classification. WESTHOFENER MORSTEIN RIESLING 97 2019, Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen Pure limestone and one of Germany‘s star winemakers turn this into a killer combo. KIEDRICHER GRÄFENBERG RIESLING 97 GG 2019, Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau 2019 Grapes from an ancient and elevated site interpreted by absolutely pristine winemaking. WESTHOFENER MORSTEIN RIESLING 97 GG 2019 Weingut Wittmann, Rheinhessen The same exquisite limestone site, made by yet another Riesling world champion. NIERSTEINER PETTENTHAL 97 RIESLING GG 2019 Weingut Gunderloch, Rheinhessen Rieslings from the Roter Hang, or Red Slope, a rhyolite escarpment, are always savoury. PÜNDERICHER MARIENBURG 97 FAHRLAY TERRASSEN RIESLING 2018, Weingut Clemens Busch For years, the Busch family have pioneered an absolutely uncompromising soil-driven style. DORSHEIMER GOLDLOCH RIESLING 96 GG 2019, Schlossgut Diel From a slightly warmer part of the Nahe, this shows off Caroline Diel‘s outstanding talent. GRAACHER HIMMELREICH RIESLING 96 GG 2019 Weingut Schloss Lieser, Mosel Few Mosel estates bottle wines with such consistent brilliance and sheer luminosity. WILTINGER SCHARZHOFBERG 95 PERGENTSKNOPP RIESLING GG 2019, Van Volxem An exquisite interpretation of what probably is Germany‘s most iconic Riesling vineyard. sandstone and granite – will show you three really distinct Rieslings. Riesling thus has a beautiful site signature. Riesling also is beautiful at every stage of its life: in its youth it brims with primary flavours of fruit. Depending on climate, its aromas span the entire citrus spectrum and move from green apple via stone fruit to ripest mango and pineapple – the best wines offset these fruity notions with floral and herbal, stony and earthy overtones. As Riesling evolves in bottle, it changes texturally and aromatically. It becomes balmlike and almost otherworldly aromas appear: fresh fruit notions are transmuted into hints of herbs, dried citrus peel, beeswax, lanolin and stone. Even modest wines go through this magical transformation. Riesling is also adaptable: it thrives in varied climates – even though it prefers coolness. Yet, with all this personality, Riesling demands the best sites: the stoniest, poorest, steepest vineyards. It Dönnhoff wines are celebrated across the globe for their purity and expression. Below: ripe Riesling grapes in Dönnhoff‘s vineyards. excels where others founder. This is one of the most beautiful things to contemplate about Riesling – that the greatest struggle brings forth the greatest beauty. INFINITE VARIETY Riesling’s greatest strength is also its greatest weakness: Riesling’s nature means that it can be and is made in a mind-boggling variety of styles: from dry, via off-dry, medium sweet to downright luscious. Some Rieslings are ultra-light, others full-bodied and muscular. While this is a source of fasciation to initiates, it puts average drinkers off – especially since the label rarely gives a clue to style. The market prefers a clear taste profile and Riesling simply refuses to be shoved into a box. The only solution: taste, keep track of what you like and speak to your specialist wine merchant. GERMANY We have to start with Germany: it is Riesling’s spiritual home, where it evolved and where it first found fame. Nobody grows as much Riesling as the Germans: their 24,049 hectares/59,426 acres represent 38% of the world’s Riesling plantings. It grows in every region and reaches its most diverse and heightened expressions here. Germany’s paradigm shift from < summer 2021 falstaff 63