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vor 3 Jahren

Falstaff Magazin International 00/2021

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wine / BORDEAUX WE

wine / BORDEAUX WE REALISED THAT OUR WINES REACH A PERFECT BALANCE OF THEIR OWN ACCORD VIA THESE FARMING METHODS. HÉLÈNE GÉNIN TECHNICAL DIRECTOR < Alfred Tesseron of Château Pontet- Canet dared to convert his estate even earlier. It was in 2004 that he took the first steps towards biodynamic farming with his estate manager Jean-Michel Comme. The conversion was interrupted in summer 2007 since mildew threatened to overwhelm the vines but certification followed in 2010 for all of his 81 hectares/200 acres. Early on during the conversion, Comme was trying to purchase second-hand tractors. Since older models are lighter, he hoped to avoid soil compaction by using them. The logical next step was to use horses. By now there is a special tract at Pontet Canet, housing coopers, farriers and other artisans whose skills are needed for these viticultural methods. Even the biodynamic preparations are made here. Comme now works as an independent viticultural consultant to share his experience with other estates. AHEAD INTO THE PAST Two to three dozen estates now uses horses in the vineyard – a point they love to stage effectively. But one should not forget that these horses also symbolise many small changes that have been wrought in vineyards and cellars – often unreported – over the past years. The focus now, across the board, is the return to that cool elegance – the actual strength of this region with its Atlantic climate. Less use of oak, less alcohol, more appetite for artisanal vinification – that is the credo. When a deuxième cru classé estate like Château Durfort Viviens in Margaux, next to registering spectacular results in organic farming, also holds an organic certification in oenology and vinifies its entire, albeit unusually small 2018 harvest in clay < illustration: Stefanie Hilgarth 34 falstaff summer 2021

summer 2021 falstaff 35

FALSTAFF ÖSTERREICH