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wine / BORDEAUX WE REALISED THAT OUR WINES REACH A PERFECT BALANCE OF THEIR OWN ACCORD VIA THESE FARMING METHODS. HÉLÈNE GÉNIN TECHNICAL DIRECTOR < Alfred Tesseron of Château Pontet- Canet dared to convert his estate even earlier. It was in 2004 that he took the first steps towards biodynamic farming with his estate manager Jean-Michel Comme. The conversion was interrupted in summer 2007 since mildew threatened to overwhelm the vines but certification followed in 2010 for all of his 81 hectares/200 acres. Early on during the conversion, Comme was trying to purchase second-hand tractors. Since older models are lighter, he hoped to avoid soil compaction by using them. The logical next step was to use horses. By now there is a special tract at Pontet Canet, housing coopers, farriers and other artisans whose skills are needed for these viticultural methods. Even the biodynamic preparations are made here. Comme now works as an independent viticultural consultant to share his experience with other estates. AHEAD INTO THE PAST Two to three dozen estates now uses horses in the vineyard – a point they love to stage effectively. But one should not forget that these horses also symbolise many small changes that have been wrought in vineyards and cellars – often unreported – over the past years. The focus now, across the board, is the return to that cool elegance – the actual strength of this region with its Atlantic climate. Less use of oak, less alcohol, more appetite for artisanal vinification – that is the credo. When a deuxième cru classé estate like Château Durfort Viviens in Margaux, next to registering spectacular results in organic farming, also holds an organic certification in oenology and vinifies its entire, albeit unusually small 2018 harvest in clay < illustration: Stefanie Hilgarth 34 falstaff summer 2021
summer 2021 falstaff 35
food / RECIPES 84 falstaff summer 2
food / RECIPES OCTOPUS SALAD with t
food / RECIPES 88 falstaff summer 2
food / BEEF BREEDS BEEF BREEDS Limo
food / BEEF BREEDS Sirloin, rib-eye
food / BEEF BREEDS < meat. Weighing
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food / REZEPTE RECIPES 102 falstaff
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EAT YOUR HEART OUT Hans Mahr is a f
Spago Restaurant is still the place
Lima is the place to head to for au
www.scheiblhofer.at www.theresort.a
ETXEBARRI Axpe, Bizkaia, Spain 3In
Join us for a stylish journey at SO
ACOUNTRY BOY FROM THE SOUTHWEST OF
EATING AT ALAIN DUCASSE ducasse-par
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WHAT IS FOREST BATHING? • In Japa
NEWS ITALY VENICE IN DANGER In June
The port at Villefranche-sur- Mer b
Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat embodies
in less than an hour, passing the h
RESTAURANTS LA TABLE DE PATRICK RAI
Every July and August thousands of
Bateleur Camp evokes a bygone area
dark fruits, perfectly reflecting o
Making Memories. www.tirol.at
Salzburg on the river Salzach: it s
Picturesque Burgenland with vineyar
6 apricots LOWER AUSTRIA THE BLUE D
TIROL SPARKLING PARADISE 800,000 cr
Grüner Veltliner is Austria‘s in
View of a typical Kellergasse and t
Wagram is a vast bank of wind-blown
WINE ESTATES WEINVIERTEL REGION Wei
eldorado LIFESTYLE The longing for
THE NEW FACE OF SINGLE MALT SCOTCH
Scotch glasses lined up for tasting
WHISKY WITH TERROIR The Islay disti
… tasting the best of Kamptal, si
SCHRAMM ORIGINS COMPLETE Cleo - Des
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green apples, fragrant white flower
• Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superior
tasting / PROSECCO DOCG • Castè
A coastal view of Tuscany: the town
with an abundance of cherry and bla
• Palafreno Toscana Rosso IGT 201
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the dregs / NEW BEGINNINGS NEW BEGI
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